Hiking the Skerwink Trail

Hiking the Skerwink Trail.

By Patricia Boulter

As soon as I moved to Newfoundland people have told me I had to hike the Skerwink Trail (not to be confused with the Spurwink trail located on the Avalon). The trail gets its name “Skerwink” from the old English skirwingle bird, referred to in Newfoundland as a shearwater or hagdown. The trail began development in early 1999, and has since been featured on several North American and International “must hike” trails lists, and its popularity has added to an already vibrant tourism trade in the nearby historic community of Trinity. So, it was settled, after some research we decided to hike the trail in early June, 2013.

The trail head, and a wee salt box in the background.

The trail is a loop (my favourite kind) and is approximately 5 km long. You can hike it doing a leisurely pace in about 2 hours. While there are several very steep and demanding sections, overall the difficulty is moderate. To compensate for some of the steep stairs you must climb there are many lovely benches and viewing decks along the way for taking in the views or catching one’s breath.

The trail is located on the Bonavista Peninsula, approximately a 2.5 hour drive from St. John’s. The trail itself is nestled between Trinity Harbour and Robinhood Bay and the communities of Trinity East and Port Rexton. There are many B&Bs, campgrounds, and even a hostel in the nearby area. We opted to camp at the nearby Lockston Path Provincial Park.

Skerwink Trail Map

The day we hiked the trail it was threatening to rain, but thankfully the weather held until we had finished the hike. Even on an overcast day the views were impressive. We saw sea stacks erupting precariously from the ocean floor, sea birds swooping and diving, ocean vistas, inland ponds, moose tracks, wildflowers, salt box houses, an old railbed, and farmland. In season one can also catch glimpses of whales, capelin rolling onto pristine rock beaches, and (if you are very lucky) icebergs. While the surrounding flora and fauna are impressive enough to draw in yearly visitors, the history of the region is also fascinating. The Trinity area is one of the oldest settled communities in Newfoundland dating back to the 1600s. During the late 1700s the area had become a booming economic center on the island, mainly due to Trinity’s protected harbour. Thus, the trail truly does offer a small sampling of everything that is considered quintessential Newfoundland.

A sea stack that looks like a coral fan.

The trail begins on an old railbed that takes you past old salt box houses; some are used year round others as summer houses or heritage themed B&Bs. Very soon you find yourself peering over steep cliffs to catch a glimpse of sea stacks, turquoise waters, and crashing waves. The majority of the trail winds itself along the ragged coastline with steep drop offs on one side and windswept tuckamore on the other.

The most spectacular sight on the trail was found near the section by the Skerwink Rocks where a grassy plain emerges from the tuckamore. Here a series of fox holes have been tunneled directly under the trail itself. We were lucky enough to witness the emergence of a baby fox (kit) who sought to soak in some rays of the fleeting sunlight. We took our time on this section of the trail and watched the fox, sea birds, and ocean views all from the civilized comfort of a very well situated bench. If it had been a nicer day it would have been a perfect spot for a picnic.

Further along the trail one is granted breathtaking views of historic Trinity. From this vantage point you can understand why the community has enjoyed such a long history, for it was founded in a perfectly protected natural harbour.

A Very Happy Chocolate Lab. Sam White’s Cove.

After enjoying panoramic views of the surrounding landscape from the towering cliff edges the trail descends once again to sea level. The last stretch of the trail allows you access to a stone beach (Sam White’s Cove) with the ocean on one side and a fresh water pond (Farm Pond) on the other. It was in this very location where the original settlers built their first homes in order to benefit from the well protected harbour and easy access to the bounties of the sea. Having views of the ocean and freshwater made it the perfect ending to a wonderful hike, one which our water loving Chocolate Lab was much appreciative of I am sure.

For more information about the trail visit: http://www.theskerwinktrail.com/index.html