Sunrise at Cape Spear

Posted on July 14, 2013 by SeaFoam Photography

Sunrise at the Most Easterly Point in Canada

By: Patricia Boulter

Watching the sunrise at Cape Spear is special any day of the year, but the sunrise for summer solstice 2013 was extraordinarily special. On a Friday morning some friends and I were wacky enough to set our alarms for 4:00 a.m. and hit the road at 4:30 a.m. to drive the 25-30 minutes from St. John’s to Cape Spear.

The very early start and the many yawns were worth it. We arrived just before the sun began to rise above the Atlantic ocean. At Cape Spear the golden orange sun literally emerges from an endless expanse of dark blue ocean, the colour contrast is truly amazing. We felt lucky to just silently witness this routine event that goes unmarked almost every other day of the year. If all we saw that day was the beauty of the sun greeting the morning sky we would have been more than satisfied, but this was summer solstice, there was magic in the air, so there was more wonderment to come.

Little did we know that in a few days (3 to be exact) the capelin (mallotus villosus) would start rolling onto beaches around the Avalon Peninsula. Capelin are small fish in the smelt family that reside in the Arctic and Atlantic oceans. They eat mainly plankton, but the larger capelin prey on krill and other crustaceans. Between the ages of 2-6 capelin travel south and spawn on beaches along the coastline of Newfoundland. They are a staple in the diet of local marine life (whales, seabirds, cod, squid etc.). They are also a staple in the diet of Newfoundlanders who line up in the hundreds on beaches to catch them in nets and buckets to later fry them up, freeze them, or use them as fertilizer for crops.

Whale season begins in Newfoundland when the capelin begin to migrate into the area. On the morning of the summer solstice we were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time to witness hundreds of humpback whales migrate past the rocky edges of Cape Spear just in time for the capelin to arrive in a few days time. Everywhere we looked there were whales splashed out across the horizon. Their spouts caught the light of the newly emerged sun making them appear to be made of golden mist.

We watched the whales in a state of heightened excitement for what seemed like hours, although I think it was only about 40 minutes. We all knew we had to get going back to our regular morning routines, but we just couldn’t drag ourselves away. It was a good thing none of us suggested leaving because just when we thought the morning couldn’t get more spectacular two whales began to playfully breach below us. Breaching refers to a whale leaping out of the water, also referred to as cresting. Officially a breach is when more than 40% of the whale’s body is out of the water, less than 40% is referred to as a lunge. It was the first time I had ever witnessed a whale breaching and it was spectacular.

If you have the will and determination to set your alarm before the sun rises know that is worth it. Not only will you get photographs in a brilliant light, you may also witness once in a lifetime events. It is also a great way to turn an otherwise ordinary workday into an adventure.

Hiking the Spurwink Island Path

Posted on July 13, 2013 by SeaFoam Photography

The Spurwink Trail

By: Patricia Boulter

On a fine and very hot Sunday, some friends and I decided to hike the Spurwink Island Path from Port Kirwin to Aquaforte in order to see the Berryhead Arch. The path is 17.1 km one way, and is rated difficult.

Berryhead Arch

We set out from St. John’s at 9 a.m. and traveled down the southern shore (Irish Loop) for 1.5 hours. We parked one car in Aquaforte in the parking lot beside Hagan’s Hospitality home. We then continued on in one car down to Port Kirwin, where we parked by a very quaint white church at the end of the community. In each parking lot there are signs indicating where hikers should park and where the trail begins. Many hikers opt to hike the path from the opposite direction (Aquaforte to Port Kirwin), we soon discovered why as this route would be a little less strenuous. If you are pressed for time, I would recommend parking at Port Kirwin, hiking the 7.8 km to Berryhead Arch, and then hiking back to Port Kirwin. While this is the most strenuous section of the trail it also offers some of the more spectacular scenery and the overall distance of the hike would be shortened.

As indicated on the East Coast Trail’s website the hike is rated difficult. The topography of the trail is constantly changing, there are many steep hills. You will see many different habitats as you progress along the path. The trail takes you through grassy fields, root covered forest paths, fern covered walk ways, over streams, bogs, and past rocky beaches and towering cliffs. You will also see a variety of flora and fauna along the way. While varied the trail itself is very easy to follow just keep your eyes peeled for the white triangle markers, and if there is a fork in the path a signpost with an arrow indicates which way the East Coast Trail goes.

For the most part our hike went smoothly. We made pretty good time, starting at 10:30 a.m. and ending at 5:00 p.m.. However, we did have one folly during the first 10 minutes of the hike ironically on “folly road”. My friend took a hard fall onto gravel and cut open his hand and knee. Thankfully we had a first aid kit with us, so he was able to continue on with the hike. If you do plan on doing this hike make sure you have a first aid kit, and someone with you with some first aid training. I would also recommend that you bring plenty of water (2L per person). While there are several small streams where you can fill a water bottle the hike does make you very thirsty. It is also important to note that it is very boggy in sections and you will likely come out with mud half way up both legs and at least one foot soaking wet.

After our rough start the hike went quite well. We began walking down a gravel road that led us past houses, fields, wood piles, and a lovely pond. Once on the narrow path we were almost immediately rewarded with beautiful ocean vistas and steep cliffs. Within the first half hour we had already spotted two whales cruising below us. The first part alternates between hiking in exposed grassy spaces and wooded areas. The elevation also varies quite dramatically in this first section, which was hard on the legs.

We arrived at Berryhead Arch at lunch time. We stopped for 45 minutes to eat, poke around, and take some some photos. Not far from Berryhead Arch, near Sourwink Island, there is an overnight camping area with a huge fire pit and several tent platforms. The last section of the hike was not as steep as the first, although it was still strenuous. For the majority of this section we were hiking through the woods, we got numerous fly bites and were unable to benefit from the sea breezes that had kept us cool on the first section. There is a lovely stream and field at Croft’s Field (13.7 km) where we took a break before we trudged the last haul of the hike.

The trail ends back at the highway where we had to follow a small path over an old bridge with some small rapids underneath to where our first car was parked. Overall the hike was well worth it, although if I did again I would not pick such a muggy day. We were hiking in 27 degree heat. which felt closer to 36 when in the woods. The lighting was also odd that day as smoke from forest fires in Labrador covered the sky for most of the day, giving scenery an eerie orange tinge.

Total Distance: 17.1 km

Time: Give yourself 7-8 hours. (We did it in 6.5 hrs, which includes a 45 min. break for lunch and frequent stops).

What to Bring: Plenty of water (2L each), lunch, snacks, a good pair of shoes with ankle support, proper attire for the weather, sunscreen, bug repellent, first aid kit, and a cell phone (there is service on the Bell/Telus network). This hike is also dog friendly.

Pet Advice: On the day we were hiking we did not encounter a single soul on path, we let our dog off lead for the most part as she is well trained and sticks very close. However, there are many very steep drop offs, if you do bring a dog that tends to take off I would keep them on a lead for their safety and your own. There have been numerous incidents of pets breaking limbs and falling down cliffs along the East Coast Trail, so it is better to be safe than sorry.

A Bog Dog

: Trail marker in Port Kirwin.

: Port Kirwin

: Port Kirwin

Beagles in Port Kirwin

Pond at beginning of the trail.

The group at the beginning of the hike.

Whale sighting.

Markers on the trail.

A lovely stone beach.

Eagle sighting.

Berryhead Arch

Camping Area

Tent Platform

Spurwink Island

A field of daisies

Fern Gully

Port Kirwin

Port Kirwin

Port Kirwin

Fishing Boat

A Bog Dog

Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve

Posted on July 4, 2013 by SeaFoam Photography

Exploring “the Cape”

By Patricia Boulter

One perfect sunny Sunday morning in early May, 2013 we decided to cross off another destination on our bucket list: Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve. We headed out down the Trans Canada Highway from St. John’s, and headed to “the Cape” via Placentia.

On the way to Cape St. Mary’s we stopped in Fox Harbour near Placentia.

Newfoundland is known for its array of different types of seabirds. Each year masses of bird enthusiasts, tourists, and researchers alike flock to the Cape in order to catch a glimpse of one of the most spectacular seabird rookeries in the world. What makes this experience so special is the site’s accessibility. “Bird Rock” as it is called can be seen from land after a very short (1 km) hike from the parking lot. You can literally view nesting sea birds from a mere stones throw away (10 meters).

Our first glimpse of “Bird Rock”

Bird Rock is the nesting grounds to thousands of seabirds such as common gulls, razorbills, common murres, black-legged kittiwakes, northern gannets, and double breasted great cormorants. It is also the winter home to close to 20,000 scoters, oldsquaw, harlequin, dovekies, thick-billed murres, and kittiwake. The birds are so numerous that as soon as you open your car doors you can instantly hear and smell them.

A zoomed in photo to depict just how cramped living conditions are on Bird Rock.

The drive is quite pleasant from St. John’s to the Cape, and can be done quite comfortably as a day trip. You can drive to the Cape in approximately 2.5 – 3 hours, but we decided to take our time and stop and view the sights along the way. The turn off for the reserve was unmarked , but perhaps that was due to the time of year we visited. The turn off comes shortly after the community of St. Bride’s, and is near a restaurant and RV park. The road is paved and well maintained and takes you past pastures and tundra-like landscape.

When you arrive at the car park there is an Interpretation Centre to the left and a light house to the right. The Centre was closed when we were there, but in season there are guided tours and musical performances. The trail to “Bird Rock” can be accessed on the other side of the Interpretation Centre.

A birds eye view for bird watching from afar.

As you approach the sight you are overwhelmed by the scale of the landscape, giant rolling cliffs tumble into the Atlantic to create impressive (yet dangerous) cliffs. The trail hugs the cliff side as it winds its way to the viewing area.The views at this sight are truly breathtaking. As soon as you make your way past the Interpretation Centre you can immediately view the seabird colony from a distance.

Scattered birds in the water like constellations in the sky.

Viewing the colony from a distance, allows you to appreciate its true size. Birds not only nest on what is referred to as “Bird Rock”, but also on the surrounding cliff edges. You could spend a whole day being mesmerized by watching the spectacle of birds slowly and gracefully circling, looking for a place to land. Or by watching the thousands of birds splashed out across the turquoise waters diving, feeding or just bobbing up and down. The sheer number of them are akin to constellations scattered across the night sky.

The viewing area itself, which is an outcropping of rocks that literally jut out over the edge, is not for those afraid of heights. There are no viewing decks, railings, or seats of any kind, you are literally standing on the edge of a cliff. Every inch of “Bird Rock”, a mass expanse of rock which has fallen away from the mainland, is covered with nesting birds. We spent a long time just watching the different birds swoop, land, feed, and groom themselves. We could have spent the whole day just happily watching them.

We decided, however, to take a little trek out across the tundra like landscape. There are no paths, but it would be hard to get lost in this landscape, especially if you just follow the coast. Our decision, while at first seemed questionable due to the many bogs we encountered, did pay off. We eventually stumbled upon a lone female caribou, who let us get quite close to take some amazing pictures.

On the way back from our small hike the light had changed, and again we were taken aback by the immense beauty of this rugged sea bird colony that literally stumbles into the Atlantic.

We did a loop back to St. John’s through Branch and up to North Harbour, eventually leading back to the Trans Canada Highway. If we had more time there are many lovely spots to stop at along this route.

The light changed so dramatically, it was stunning. I wished I could stay another few hours to capture the “magic hour” light on site.

Overall Cape St. Mary’s was a lovely surprise, I had read about it in brochures but I knew few people who had actually been there. Many Newfoundlanders have not been here, or if they have, only when they were little. It is well worth a stop or detour on anyone’s itinerary and should be added to your bucket list if you live here.

What to Bring:

It is a remote destination so bring water, snacks, a picnic etc. You should also be prepared for high winds, and unpredictable weather as it is right along the coast. Bring comfortable and reliable walking shoes, especially if you plan on going off the beaten path. Be sure to bring your camera, binoculars, and (if you can) a local bird book. We really wished we were there in season to have a guided tour in order to learn more about the site and the various birds. The site is also dog friendly (at least when we visited), while we were there numerous groups had opted to bring their dogs. However, the cliffs are very steep and the viewing area is extremely rugged. Be sure to leash your pet, or better yet opt to leave them at home.

Additional Resources:

http://www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/wer/r_csme/

http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/placestogo/capestmarys

http://www.capestmarysperformanceseries.ca/ (Information about the Performance Series held at the Interpretation Centre)