The Spurwink Trail
By: Patricia Boulter
On a fine and very hot Sunday, some friends and I decided to hike the Spurwink Island Path from Port Kirwin to Aquaforte in order to see the Berryhead Arch. The path is 17.1 km one way, and is rated difficult.
Berryhead Arch
We set out from St. John’s at 9 a.m. and traveled down the southern shore (Irish Loop) for 1.5 hours. We parked one car in Aquaforte in the parking lot beside Hagan’s Hospitality home. We then continued on in one car down to Port Kirwin, where we parked by a very quaint white church at the end of the community. In each parking lot there are signs indicating where hikers should park and where the trail begins. Many hikers opt to hike the path from the opposite direction (Aquaforte to Port Kirwin), we soon discovered why as this route would be a little less strenuous. If you are pressed for time, I would recommend parking at Port Kirwin, hiking the 7.8 km to Berryhead Arch, and then hiking back to Port Kirwin. While this is the most strenuous section of the trail it also offers some of the more spectacular scenery and the overall distance of the hike would be shortened.
As indicated on the East Coast Trail’s website the hike is rated difficult. The topography of the trail is constantly changing, there are many steep hills. You will see many different habitats as you progress along the path. The trail takes you through grassy fields, root covered forest paths, fern covered walk ways, over streams, bogs, and past rocky beaches and towering cliffs. You will also see a variety of flora and fauna along the way. While varied the trail itself is very easy to follow just keep your eyes peeled for the white triangle markers, and if there is a fork in the path a signpost with an arrow indicates which way the East Coast Trail goes.
For the most part our hike went smoothly. We made pretty good time, starting at 10:30 a.m. and ending at 5:00 p.m.. However, we did have one folly during the first 10 minutes of the hike ironically on “folly road”. My friend took a hard fall onto gravel and cut open his hand and knee. Thankfully we had a first aid kit with us, so he was able to continue on with the hike. If you do plan on doing this hike make sure you have a first aid kit, and someone with you with some first aid training. I would also recommend that you bring plenty of water (2L per person). While there are several small streams where you can fill a water bottle the hike does make you very thirsty. It is also important to note that it is very boggy in sections and you will likely come out with mud half way up both legs and at least one foot soaking wet.
After our rough start the hike went quite well. We began walking down a gravel road that led us past houses, fields, wood piles, and a lovely pond. Once on the narrow path we were almost immediately rewarded with beautiful ocean vistas and steep cliffs. Within the first half hour we had already spotted two whales cruising below us. The first part alternates between hiking in exposed grassy spaces and wooded areas. The elevation also varies quite dramatically in this first section, which was hard on the legs.
We arrived at Berryhead Arch at lunch time. We stopped for 45 minutes to eat, poke around, and take some some photos. Not far from Berryhead Arch, near Sourwink Island, there is an overnight camping area with a huge fire pit and several tent platforms. The last section of the hike was not as steep as the first, although it was still strenuous. For the majority of this section we were hiking through the woods, we got numerous fly bites and were unable to benefit from the sea breezes that had kept us cool on the first section. There is a lovely stream and field at Croft’s Field (13.7 km) where we took a break before we trudged the last haul of the hike.
The trail ends back at the highway where we had to follow a small path over an old bridge with some small rapids underneath to where our first car was parked. Overall the hike was well worth it, although if I did again I would not pick such a muggy day. We were hiking in 27 degree heat. which felt closer to 36 when in the woods. The lighting was also odd that day as smoke from forest fires in Labrador covered the sky for most of the day, giving scenery an eerie orange tinge.
Total Distance: 17.1 km
Time: Give yourself 7-8 hours. (We did it in 6.5 hrs, which includes a 45 min. break for lunch and frequent stops).
What to Bring: Plenty of water (2L each), lunch, snacks, a good pair of shoes with ankle support, proper attire for the weather, sunscreen, bug repellent, first aid kit, and a cell phone (there is service on the Bell/Telus network). This hike is also dog friendly.
Pet Advice: On the day we were hiking we did not encounter a single soul on path, we let our dog off lead for the most part as she is well trained and sticks very close. However, there are many very steep drop offs, if you do bring a dog that tends to take off I would keep them on a lead for their safety and your own. There have been numerous incidents of pets breaking limbs and falling down cliffs along the East Coast Trail, so it is better to be safe than sorry.
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